The Orange House Bolt Fund was established in 2003, with two aims:
To maintain existing sport routes and bolt new sport climbs.
Ethics
Single pitch climbs. The accepted ethic of the Costa Blanca is “sport climbing” protection, which should mean that a fall by the leader after clipping the first bolt is safe and risk of injury is slight.
Multi-pitch climbs. Some routes are sport bolted, while some longer routes are a mix of some bolts and traditional protection maybe required. Some routes are also a mix of “free” and “aid” climbing.
Lower offs & Abseil stations. Our preferred system is “Lower off” on inland crags and “inox lower off” on sea cliffs.
Publicising new routes. Where new routes are being equipped free mini guides are produced. Subscribe to our bi annual news letter or like us on face book for the latest topos and topo updates.
Funding. For every Euro donated at the Orange House Bar, the Orange House matches it, this gives us the purchasing power to buy direct from the factory at the best possible price. FIXE is our preferred equipment manufacturer.
A naming scheme was introduced in 2005, after a donation of greater than €15 we will endeavor to name a new route for you. Please email rich@theorangehouse.co.uk for more info or to make a donation.
Over the last decade the fund has purchased approximately 3500 bolts and 500 lower offs.
Areas
Which have benefited from the Fund are:
(FA = First Ascent new routes, CM = Crag Maintenance, D = donations)
- Bernia (FA & D)
- Alcalali (FA)
- Toix sea cliffs (FA & CM)
- Toix main cliff (FA & CM)
- Echo Valley (FA & CM)
- Crag X (FA)
- Sella (Wildside, Del Rhino, Water Cave, Morro Carlos, Fallen Block Area & Devino FA & CM & D)
- Moraira (FA)
- Olta (CM)
- Mascarat Gorge (CM)
- Castellets Ridge (CM)
- Puig Campana (FA & CM)
- Guardelest (D)
- Relleu (CM)
- Cabazon (D & CM)
Areas where activists have received bolts and lower offs from the Fund are:
- Guadalest
- Cabazon
- Wildside
- Sella Rhino
- Sella Devino
- Sella Moro Carlos
- Bernia
Crag Maintenance: Replacement where old, inappropriate or “home-made” equipment has been used and is or has become unsafe. Replacement of single bolt lower offs, replacement of excessively worn lower offs and bolts, replacement of non stainless steal products in a sea cliff environment, replacement of nylon protection for runners, belays / abseil stations.
Where routes have been either retro-bolted or had bolts replaced the original style and feel of the route is kept when safe to do so within the definition of a “sport climb”. The old equipment is removed when possible to do so.
New Routes: The bolting style is that of a sport climb which means: The bolts and lower offs are from a UIAA and EC marked and approved manufacturer.(FIXE)
FAQs
Who bolts routes?
Usually the local activists are the people doing the new routing and maintenance of routes.
Who is responsible for the bolts?
You are! As the climber you are responsible for your own safety whilst climbing a route.
Who owns the bolts?
The bolts are legally classed as “abandoned equipment”, so you could argue the land owner by default becomes the owner, since they are abandoned on their land.
What qualifications do you need to bolt a route?
Absolutely none! Scary isn’t it. We do run a bolting work shop once a year for interested parties.
What permissions do you need to bolt?
New routers should have permission from the land owner to firstly be on their land and secondly to drill the holes and place bolts. Failure to gain this permission could result in prosecution and removal of the bolts.
Local and national access restrictions due to flora and fauna protection are robustly supported by law with large fines and/or custodial sentences possible.
